Montreal “City of a hundred Bell Towers”

I drag my eyes away from the Jade sculpture at Vancouver International and I head towards security..

I gaze outside the window-
wanting to say goodbye
But dark mountains they roll under
They stay with me for awhile
And Mt. Baker lords it over
Keeping watch till sunlight lowers..

It is calming to have Rocky Mountains chaperon me for a while. My reverie is gently broken into by a voice “Marinella – something special.. because I like you”. I play along pretending that my on-flight meal wasn’t paid for in advance!
My Air Canada flight makes a smooth landing at Trudeau International. It is past mid-night as we walk out of the arrival lounge onto the street in Canada’s Cultural capital: Montreal; originally known as ‘Ville Marie’. It is different from Vancouver where nature fills in the scene scape; the urban landscape shows off a mixed heritage of architecture. It all depends on where you are – and one can engage in a spot to spot analysis.

It is a crisp summer morning and we are driven up the slope of Mount Royal; soon we step out onto the paved path and make our way towards the Blessed steps that lead one to the largest church in Canada: Saint Joseph’s Oratory that sits on a promontory overlooking Downtown Montreal. Pilgrims filled with hope, climb their way up the middle set of a hundred steps literally on their knees. They come here to seek intercession through the kind heart of St. Joseph –the Patron saint of Canada. The giant copper dome – second largest in the world after St. Peter’s in Rome, majestically occupies the sky scape. Styled in period Italian Renaissance, the Basilica boasts of a collection of sculptures and breathtaking stained glass panes and an impressive pipe organ. We spend time at the sacred museum and pay reverence to the embalmed heart of Blessed Bro. André: who envisioned the dream that led to the realization of the Oratory. We walk through the door of an unusual Museum - of Cribs from around the world. At the little souvenir shop we browse through and eventually pick up some Holy oil, trinkets and a couple of mother-of-pearl rosaries. We then step onto the terrace and look out onto the spectacular view of the city. Towards the end of our pilgrimage, we pay homage at the shrine of Bro. André and soon we walk away knowing that St. Joseph will be watching over us.

It is early evening and we exit the Metro; our heels click on cobbled streets past some old world architecture; pretty lamps adorn the streets. Old Montreal is charming; the aura is artsy and sort of liberated. There is a mixed choice of out door cafes and formal restaurants, some chic Boutiques and Art Galleries.
We then start to make our way towards the Quays of Old Montreal, where the St. Lawrence meets the city. We amble around Place Jacques Cartier: a Plaza so busy with a Chinese Street Circus, there! a juggler act, caricature artists you can pose for and even get your portrait in a frame. We stroll towards Champ de Mars a park in front of City Hall. On the way we check an ancient sailing yacht that is visiting one of the Quays. Soon we are heading towards the destination of our outing – the Clocktower Quay which offers a spectacular view of the International Pyromusical competition – the annual Le Mondial Fireworks Festival. We are lucky we get the grand view at the railings. We get to watch Portugal perform and she does in splendorous pyrotechnical bursts: luminous colors splashing like from a paintbrush onto a midnight blue canvas with the Clocktower and Jacques Cartier Bridge spanning the Lawrence adding to the milieu. We walk away when it is over with a satisfaction that cultural extravagance offers to the spirit.

Next morning we are back in Old Montreal and I can see why it is “the city of a hundred bell towers”. We are in the Cathedral of Mary Queen of the World – the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Montreal, in Gothic style. And once inside what occupies your eye frame are Bernouli’s Columns that canopy the main alter; a replica of the ones in Rome.
Horses and buggies
Calèches all neat
Clip clop down
Old cobbled streets
We are dropped off right in front of Basilique Notre Dame the crown jewels of Montreal’s religious heritage. A neo Gothic structure of most dramatic architecture. We pay an entrance fee and walk through the doorway. The interior is breathtaking: from the exquisite sapphire colored ceiling with golden stars, the stained glass windows and rich furnishings to the sanctuary in a “polychrome of azures, blues, purple, reds, gold and silver”. We spend a while in prayer and as we turn to leave, our eyes are drawn upwards to the impressive Casavant Frères pipe organ, from where glorious sacred music begged us to stay.. we had to pull ourselves away from this beauteous consecrated space, blessing ourselves with holy water from the marble font at the doorway.
We are on cobbled streets again and make our way towards a subway cafe, pick our favorite muffin – mine is always a blueberry and sit down to leisurely sip our frothy cappuccinos.
We walk up to the sunlit street and then into Saint Patrick’s Basilica where one can’t miss the Irish influence. The wooden pulpit holds our eye; we sit awhile in reverence…me and my Aunt Dolores.

It’s a cloudy morning, the streets are wet from a light shower; you can smell the freshness of tree bark. My last day in the city and we take the Metro into Downtown Montreal.. now steel and glass towers, now period church steeples. There are stylish resto-bars or hardy ethnic cafes. The culinary landscape is abundantly diverse and is sure to gratify your gastronomic preferences. We take our time making up our minds; in the meanwhile there is shopping, shopping and more shopping. The rue Sainte Catherine is the heart of street shopping, from where one can come away with some good bargains especially on shoes. We pick up a half dozen Tees at one of the summer sales at Simons. Then we grab a light lunch at an Italian café and continue our hike through several malls.
Late evening.. and I am driven past the Old Cemetery and some gorgeous homes in fancy brickwork and even cut-glass panes, to the lookout on top of Mount Royal. We stand and gaze out at the fairy lights dressing downtown Montreal. What a lovely farewell to a marvelous culture trip to Ville Marie. We end it with fine dining at Lincoln’s and Carmen’s – superlative Cajun Salmon with a bowl of nutty pumpkin on the side and home styled rice.
My classic summer rendezvous with Montreal will stay with me forever.